In this article
My English friend Margaret told me that the British have been putting the same pudding in the same glass bowl at every family party for nearly three hundred years, and they still argue about it. English trifle is built in layers: sponge cake spread with raspberry jam at the bottom, a layer of fresh fruit, a thick layer of real custard, and whipped cream on top with toasted almonds scattered over it. The argument is about jelly. Half of Britain adds a layer of fruit jelly, and the other half, Margaret’s family included, says that is not a trifle at all. This is her version, with no jelly and no shortcuts.
What Margaret will not give up is the custard. A packet custard is thin and sinks into the cake, and the trifle turns into one soft blur. A homemade custard made with egg yolks, milk, cream and a little cornstarch cooks thick, then sets in the refrigerator firm enough to sit on the fruit like a layer of its own. The whole dessert is made in the morning and chilled until the party, so the sponge drinks up the jam and fruit juice while the top stays light. Here is how to make the custard thick enough to hold its own layer.
Why this English trifle works
- A custard that sets. Egg yolks plus a spoon of cornstarch give a custard thick enough to stand as a clean layer between the fruit and the cream.
- Jam on the sponge. Spreading jam on the cake slices adds sweetness and color, and the sponge soaks it up as the trifle chills.
- Fruit pressed to the glass. Berries placed against the side of the bowl make the layers look as good as they taste.
- Orange juice to moisten. A few spoons of fresh orange juice over the sponge keep it soft and bright without any other liquid.
- Made hours ahead. Five hours or overnight in the refrigerator lets the layers settle into each other while each stays distinct.
Ingredients
Makes one 3 to 4 quart glass trifle bowl, about 12 servings. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.
For the custard
- 2 cups whole milk (480ml)
- 1 cup heavy cream (240ml)
- 6 large egg yolks
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar (100g)
- 3 tablespoons cornstarch (24g)
- 1 vanilla bean, split, or 2 teaspoons vanilla
- Pinch of fine salt
For the layers
- 1 plain sponge cake or pound cake, about 12 ounces (340g), cut in thick slices
- 2/3 cup seedless raspberry jam (210g)
- 1/3 cup fresh orange juice (80ml)
- 3 cups mixed fresh raspberries and sliced strawberries (about 450g)
For the topping
- 2 cups cold heavy cream (480ml)
- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar (15g)
- 1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted (35g)
- A few fresh raspberries to finish
A day-old sponge or plain butter cake works better than a fresh one, because it soaks up the jam and juice without falling apart. Frozen berries can be used in winter: thaw them and drain well first.
How to make English trifle
Custard (make it first)
- Heat the milk, cream and split vanilla bean in a saucepan over medium heat until small bubbles appear at the edge. Do not let it boil.
- In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt until pale and smooth.
- Pour the hot milk slowly into the yolks, whisking all the time, then pour everything back into the saucepan.
- Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon and scraping the bottom, until the custard thickens and one or two slow bubbles break the surface, about 5 to 7 minutes. It should coat the spoon thickly and hold a line drawn through it with your finger.
- Take it off the heat, remove the vanilla bean (scrape the seeds back in), and stir in the vanilla now if you are using liquid vanilla. Pour into a bowl, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and cool, then chill for at least 1 hour, until cold and set.
Build the trifle
- Spread one side of each sponge slice with raspberry jam. Lay the slices jam side up in the bottom of a glass trifle bowl, cutting pieces to fill the gaps.
- Spoon the orange juice evenly over the sponge.
- Scatter the berries over the sponge, pressing some cut side out against the glass so they show.
- Stir the cold custard until smooth, then spread it over the fruit in a thick even layer, right to the edge of the glass.
- Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
- Just before serving, whip the cold cream with the powdered sugar to soft peaks. Spread it over the custard, then scatter the toasted almonds and a few raspberries on top.
Tips that make the difference
- Keep stirring the custard and reach into the corners of the pan. The bottom thickens first and can catch.
- Cook the custard until a bubble or two breaks the surface. Cornstarch needs that brief simmer to set firm once cold.
- Spread the custard only when it is cold. Warm custard melts into the cake and blurs the layers.
- Whip the cream at the last minute so it stays light and high.
Variations
- With jelly. For the other half of Britain, pour a layer of raspberry or strawberry fruit jelly over the fruit and let it set before the custard goes on.
- Strawberry only. Use strawberry jam and sliced strawberries throughout.
- Peach. Use apricot jam and sliced ripe peaches, with peach juice in place of the orange juice.
- Individual glasses. Build small trifles in tumblers or jars for a party, with the same layers.
Storage and make-ahead
Keep the trifle covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. It is best on the day it is made and the next.
Add the whipped cream and almonds just before serving if you make it more than a day ahead.
Trifle does not freeze well; the custard and fruit weep as they thaw.
Frequently asked questions
How do I make the custard thick enough for trifle?
Use egg yolks and a little cornstarch, and cook until one or two bubbles break the surface while you stir. Then chill it completely before spreading. It firms up as it cools and holds a clean layer.
Does a trifle have jelly in it?
Some families add a layer of fruit jelly and some never do. It is the oldest argument about trifle in Britain. This version has none.
Can I use store-bought cake?
Yes. A plain sponge or pound cake from the store works well, especially a day old.
How far ahead can I make trifle?
Make it the morning of the party or the night before, and add the whipped cream just before serving.
Build it in the morning in a glass bowl everyone can see, and let the first spoon go all the way to the bottom.
English Trifle with Homemade Custard (Sponge, Jam, Fruit and Cream)
Classic English trifle in a glass bowl: sponge cake spread with raspberry jam, fresh berries, a thick homemade egg custard that holds its own layer, and whipped cream with toasted almonds. Made ahead and chilled.
Ingredients
- 2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 6 large egg yolks
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 3 tablespoons cornstarch
- 1 vanilla bean, split, or 2 teaspoons vanilla
- Pinch of fine salt
- 1 plain sponge cake or pound cake, about 12 ounces (340g), cut in thick slices
- 2/3 cup seedless raspberry jam
- 1/3 cup fresh orange juice
- 3 cups mixed fresh raspberries and sliced strawberries
- 2 cups cold heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
- 1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted
- A few fresh raspberries to finish
Instructions
- Heat the milk, cream and split vanilla bean in a saucepan over medium heat until small bubbles appear at the edge. Do not let it boil.
- In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt until pale and smooth.
- Pour the hot milk slowly into the yolks, whisking all the time, then pour everything back into the saucepan.
- Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon and scraping the bottom, until the custard thickens and one or two slow bubbles break the surface, about 5 to 7 minutes. It should coat the spoon thickly and hold a line drawn through it with your finger.
- Take it off the heat, remove the vanilla bean (scrape the seeds back in), and stir in the vanilla now if you are using liquid vanilla. Pour into a bowl, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and cool, then chill for at least 1 hour, until cold and set.
- Spread one side of each sponge slice with raspberry jam. Lay the slices jam side up in the bottom of a glass trifle bowl, cutting pieces to fill the gaps.
- Spoon the orange juice evenly over the sponge.
- Scatter the berries over the sponge, pressing some cut side out against the glass so they show.
- Stir the cold custard until smooth, then spread it over the fruit in a thick even layer, right to the edge of the glass.
- Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
- Just before serving, whip the cold cream with the powdered sugar to soft peaks. Spread it over the custard, then scatter the toasted almonds and a few raspberries on top.
