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The first time my husband ate supper at my mother’s house, he watched her scrape an empty corn cob over the soup pot with the back of a knife, and he asked her what on earth was left on it. She told him that what was left on that cob was the whole trick. It was a Friday at the end of the corn season, and the last ears from the garden were turning into corn chowder, the creamiest soup of the fall. My husband had two bowls, and the next year he was the one standing at the pot scraping the cobs.
After the kernels are cut off, the cob still holds a sweet, milky pulp. Run the back of a knife down each cob and it comes out like thick cream. That corn milk is what makes a chowder taste of corn all the way through instead of tasting like a cream soup with corn floating in it, and it thickens the pot naturally. Mashing some of the potatoes against the side of the pot does the rest, so the chowder needs very little flour. If fresh corn is gone for the year, frozen corn makes a very good chowder too; the method for it is below.
Why this corn chowder works
- Corn milk from the cobs. Scraping the cobs adds sweetness, body and real corn flavor that kernels alone cannot give.
- The cobs simmered in the broth. Two cobs in the pot while the potatoes cook turn plain broth into corn stock.
- Mashed potatoes in the pot. Pressing some cooked potato against the pot thickens the chowder without a heavy flour paste.
- Milk added at the end, gently. Keeping the pot below a boil after the dairy goes in keeps it smooth.
- Smoked paprika. A pinch on top gives the gentle smoky note that old chowders got from other places, with only butter in the pot.
Ingredients
Makes about 10 cups, 6 generous bowls. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.
- 6 ears fresh sweet corn (about 4 cups kernels, 600g), or 4 cups frozen corn (see note)
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter (56g)
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 2 celery ribs, diced
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (16g)
- 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth (960ml)
- 1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (680g), peeled and diced small
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk (360ml)
- 1/2 cup heavy cream (120ml)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt, or to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for the top
- Chopped chives or green onion, to serve
With frozen corn there is no cob to scrape. Instead, blend 1 cup of the thawed corn with 1/2 cup of the milk until smooth, and stir that corn cream in with the rest of the milk. It gives almost the same body and sweetness.
How to make corn chowder
- Stand each ear of corn in a wide bowl and cut the kernels off with a sharp knife. Then run the back of the knife firmly down each cob to scrape out the milky pulp into the bowl. Keep 2 of the cobs.
- Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook gently, stirring, until soft but not brown, about 8 minutes.
- Sprinkle in the flour and stir 1 minute. Slowly pour in the broth, stirring so no lumps form.
- Add the potatoes, bay leaf and the 2 scraped cobs. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
- Lift out the cobs and the bay leaf. Press about a cup of the potatoes against the side of the pot with a spoon and stir them back in to thicken.
- Add the corn kernels and all the corn milk and simmer 5 minutes more.
- Lower the heat, stir in the milk and cream, the salt, pepper and smoked paprika, and heat until steaming hot. Do not let it boil.
- Ladle into bowls, dust with a little smoked paprika and top with chives and a pat of butter.
Tips that make the difference
- Cut the potatoes small, about half an inch, so every spoonful has potato and corn together.
- For a thicker chowder, purée two ladlefuls in a blender and stir them back in.
- Taste for salt at the end. Broths vary a lot, and corn needs more salt than you would think.
- Serve it with cornbread or crackers, the way it was always served at our table.
Variations
- Chicken corn chowder. Stir in 2 cups of shredded cooked chicken with the corn.
- Cheddar corn chowder. Off the heat, stir in 1 cup of shredded sharp cheddar a handful at a time.
- Sweet potato. Replace half the potatoes with diced sweet potato for a golden fall version.
- A little heat. Add a diced jalapeño with the onion, or a pinch of cayenne with the paprika.
Storage and make-ahead
Cool and refrigerate the chowder, covered, up to 4 days. It thickens as it sits; thin it with a splash of milk when you reheat it gently on the stove.
Chowder with milk and potatoes can turn grainy in the freezer. To freeze, make it up to the end of step 6, freeze up to 3 months, and add the milk and cream when you reheat.
Frequently asked questions
Can I make corn chowder with frozen corn?
Yes. Use 4 cups frozen kernels and blend 1 cup of them with some of the milk to replace the corn milk from the cobs. Add the rest of the corn whole.
How do I thicken corn chowder?
Mash some of the cooked potatoes against the side of the pot, or purée a couple of ladlefuls and stir them back in. A little flour with the onions also helps.
Why did my chowder curdle?
It boiled after the milk went in. Heat the chowder gently once the dairy is added and keep it just below a simmer.
What goes with corn chowder?
Cornbread, crackers, biscuits or a grilled cheese sandwich, and a green salad on the side.
Save the cobs. That is the whole lesson my mother gave my husband, and he has never thrown one away since.
Old-Fashioned Corn Chowder (Fresh or Frozen Corn)
Creamy old-fashioned corn chowder with potatoes, onion and celery, thickened with the milk scraped from the cobs, finished with milk, cream and smoked paprika. Works with fresh or frozen corn.
Ingredients
- 6 ears fresh sweet corn
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 2 celery ribs, diced
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (680g), peeled and diced small
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt, or to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for the top
- Chopped chives or green onion, to serve
Instructions
- Stand each ear of corn in a wide bowl and cut the kernels off with a sharp knife. Then run the back of the knife firmly down each cob to scrape out the milky pulp into the bowl. Keep 2 of the cobs.
- Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook gently, stirring, until soft but not brown, about 8 minutes.
- Sprinkle in the flour and stir 1 minute. Slowly pour in the broth, stirring so no lumps form.
- Add the potatoes, bay leaf and the 2 scraped cobs. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
- Lift out the cobs and the bay leaf. Press about a cup of the potatoes against the side of the pot with a spoon and stir them back in to thicken.
- Add the corn kernels and all the corn milk and simmer 5 minutes more.
- Lower the heat, stir in the milk and cream, the salt, pepper and smoked paprika, and heat until steaming hot. Do not let it boil.
- Ladle into bowls, dust with a little smoked paprika and top with chives and a pat of butter.
