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Swedish meatballs, my mother said, are only as good as the bottom of the skillet they were browned in. That dark brown crust stuck to the pan after the meatballs come out is the whole flavor of the gravy, and nobody was allowed to wash that skillet until the gravy was made. Small, tender all-beef meatballs with a pinch of allspice and nutmeg, browned in butter, then simmered in a smooth, glossy, light-brown cream gravy and spooned over buttered egg noodles, with red berry jam on the side.
The gravy is where most homemade Swedish meatballs go wrong. Either it is thin and pale, because the browned bits were left behind or never formed, or it is lumpy, because the broth went in too fast over the flour. The answer is to build the gravy right on top of those browned bits: butter and flour cooked into them until toasty, broth added slowly while you scrape, then cream. Here is how to make the gravy smooth and brown without a single lump.
Why this Swedish meatballs works
- Breadcrumbs soaked in milk. This panade keeps the meatballs soft and juicy instead of dense.
- Allspice and nutmeg. A small pinch of warm spice is the flavor that makes them taste Swedish.
- Small meatballs, browned in batches. Room in the pan means real browning, and browning is what builds the gravy.
- Gravy made in the same skillet. The browned bits dissolve into the gravy and give it color and depth.
- Broth added slowly. A little at a time, whisking and scraping, keeps the gravy perfectly smooth.
Ingredients
Makes about 30 small meatballs, enough for 4 to 6. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.
For the meatballs
- 1/2 cup plain dry breadcrumbs (55g)
- 1/3 cup whole milk (80ml)
- 1 1/2 pounds ground beef, 85 percent lean (680g)
- 1 small onion, finely grated
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon oil, for browning
For the gravy
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter (40g)
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour (25g)
- 2 cups beef broth, warmed (475ml)
- 1/2 cup heavy cream (120ml)
- 1 teaspoon soy sauce, for color
- Salt and black pepper to taste
To serve
- 12 ounces wide egg noodles (340g), cooked and tossed with butter
- Lingonberry or other tart red berry jam
Grating the onion on the small holes of a box grater makes it melt into the meatballs, so there are no crunchy bits. Warm broth blends into the roux far more smoothly than cold.
How to make Swedish meatballs
The meatballs
- In a large bowl, stir the breadcrumbs into the milk and let them soak for 5 minutes, until soft.
- Add the ground beef, grated onion, egg, salt, pepper, allspice and nutmeg. Mix gently with your hands just until combined. Overmixing makes tough meatballs.
- With wet hands, roll the mixture into small meatballs about 1 inch across, the size of a walnut. You should have about 30.
- Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet, cast iron if you have it, over medium heat. Brown the meatballs in two batches, turning them, for 7 to 8 minutes per batch, until deep brown on all sides. Move them to a plate. Do not wash the skillet.
The gravy
- Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of fat, leaving every browned bit in the pan. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the butter.
- When it melts, sprinkle in the flour and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping the bottom, until the paste turns light brown and smells toasty.
- Pour in about 1/2 cup of the warm broth and whisk hard until smooth and thick, scraping up the browned bits. Add the rest of the broth a little at a time, whisking after each addition.
- Stir in the cream and soy sauce and simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes, until the gravy is smooth, glossy and coats a spoon. Taste for salt and pepper.
- Return the meatballs and any juices to the skillet. Cover and simmer over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until cooked through.
- Serve over the buttered egg noodles with a spoonful of berry jam on the side.
Tips that make the difference
- Brown the meatballs well. Pale meatballs mean a pale gravy, because the flavor comes from what sticks to the pan.
- If the bottom of the pan starts to burn black, lower the heat. Dark brown is flavor, black is bitter.
- If the gravy ever gets lumps, whisk it hard off the heat for a moment, or pour it through a strainer and return it to the pan.
- If it gets too thick while simmering, loosen it with a splash of broth.
Variations
- Over mashed potatoes. Serve the meatballs and gravy over creamy mashed potatoes instead of noodles.
- Party meatballs. Roll them smaller and keep them warm in the gravy in a slow cooker on low.
- Sour cream gravy. Stir 1/4 cup sour cream into the gravy off the heat instead of half the cream.
- Baked meatballs. Bake on a lined sheet at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, then make the gravy in a skillet with a little butter. It will be lighter in color.
Storage and make-ahead
Keep meatballs and gravy covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Reheat gently on the stove, adding a splash of broth to loosen the gravy.
Freeze the meatballs in their gravy for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating.
Frequently asked questions
What makes Swedish meatballs different from Italian meatballs?
Warm spices like allspice and nutmeg instead of garlic and herbs, a smaller size, and a cream gravy instead of tomato sauce.
How do I keep my gravy from being lumpy?
Cook the flour into the butter first, then add warm broth a little at a time, whisking well after each addition.
Can I use only beef?
Yes. This recipe is all beef, and it is tender and full of flavor thanks to the soaked breadcrumbs.
Why serve jam with meatballs?
A spoonful of tart red berry jam cuts the richness of the gravy. It sounds odd and tastes exactly right.
Brown them well, guard that skillet, and put the jam on the side for whoever is brave enough.
Swedish Meatballs with Gravy (All Beef, Smooth Brown Cream Gravy Without Lumps)
Old-fashioned Swedish meatballs made with all beef, a pinch of allspice and nutmeg, browned in butter and simmered in a smooth light-brown cream gravy made in the same skillet. Served over buttered egg noodles with berry jam.
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup plain dry breadcrumbs
- 1/3 cup whole milk
- 1 1/2 pounds ground beef, 85 percent lean
- 1 small onion, finely grated
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon oil, for browning
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 cups beef broth, warmed
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon soy sauce, for color
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 12 ounces wide egg noodles (340g), cooked and tossed with butter
- Lingonberry or other tart red berry jam
Instructions
- In a large bowl, stir the breadcrumbs into the milk and let them soak for 5 minutes, until soft.
- Add the ground beef, grated onion, egg, salt, pepper, allspice and nutmeg. Mix gently with your hands just until combined. Overmixing makes tough meatballs.
- With wet hands, roll the mixture into small meatballs about 1 inch across, the size of a walnut. You should have about 30.
- Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet, cast iron if you have it, over medium heat. Brown the meatballs in two batches, turning them, for 7 to 8 minutes per batch, until deep brown on all sides. Move them to a plate. Do not wash the skillet.
- Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of fat, leaving every browned bit in the pan. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the butter.
- When it melts, sprinkle in the flour and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping the bottom, until the paste turns light brown and smells toasty.
- Pour in about 1/2 cup of the warm broth and whisk hard until smooth and thick, scraping up the browned bits. Add the rest of the broth a little at a time, whisking after each addition.
- Stir in the cream and soy sauce and simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes, until the gravy is smooth, glossy and coats a spoon. Taste for salt and pepper.
- Return the meatballs and any juices to the skillet. Cover and simmer over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until cooked through.
- Serve over the buttered egg noodles with a spoonful of berry jam on the side.
