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Friday night in a lot of kitchens meant the can opener. A tall can of pink salmon, a sleeve of saltines crushed in the wrapper with a rolling pin, one egg, half an onion chopped small, and a black skillet with a quarter inch of oil shimmering in it. The patties went in, nobody touched them until they let go of the pan on their own, and they came out deep gold with a crust that crackled. Creamed peas on the side, white bread and butter, and that was supper.
It took most of us until adulthood to work out that salmon patties were what you cooked at the end of the week when the money was thin. A can of salmon fed four people, the crackers were already in the cupboard, and the egg and onion cost nothing. Children just thought it was Friday. The recipe below is that one, written out with measurements, plus the two things that make the difference between patties that hold and patties that fall apart in the oil.
Why this salmon patties works
- Canned pink salmon, bones and all. The soft bones mash into the mix and disappear. They are where the calcium is, and the older cooks never picked them out. Skin comes off if you like, or stays.
- Saltines, not breadcrumbs. Crushed saltines soak up the salmon liquid, season the mix, and fry up crisper than bread. Coarse crumbs, not dust.
- A 10-minute rest before frying. The crackers swell and the egg binds. Patties shaped and fried straight away are the ones that break.
- Leave them alone in the pan. A patty releases when the crust is set. Move it early and the crust stays stuck to the skillet.
Ingredients
Makes 6 patties, enough for 3 to 4 people. US cups with grams in brackets.
- 1 large can pink salmon (14.75 oz, 418g), drained
- 1 large egg
- 1/2 cup finely crushed saltine crackers (about 14 crackers, 60g)
- 1/4 cup finely chopped onion (40g)
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour (8g)
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (about half a lemon)
- 1/4 inch (6mm) of neutral oil for frying, about 1/2 cup (120ml) in a 10-inch skillet
- Lemon wedges, to serve
Salt is usually not needed: the canned salmon and the saltines carry enough. Taste a pinch of the raw mix if you are unsure. Two small 7.5 oz cans work exactly the same as one large one.
How to make salmon patties
- Open the can, drain the salmon well, and turn it into a mixing bowl. Pull out the large round bones and any big pieces of skin if you prefer; the small soft bones can stay and will mash into the mix. Flake the salmon with a fork.
- Add the egg, crushed saltines, chopped onion, flour, black pepper and lemon juice. Mix with the fork until everything is evenly moistened. The mix should hold together when pressed; if it looks wet, add another tablespoon of crushed crackers.
- Divide into 6 portions and shape each into a patty about 3 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. Press firmly so the edges are tight. Set them on a plate and leave them for 10 minutes so the crackers swell and the egg binds.
- Pour 1/4 inch of oil into a 10-inch cast iron skillet and heat over medium-high until it shimmers. A crumb of the mix should sizzle at once.
- Lay the patties in the oil, leaving space between them. Cook 3 to 4 minutes without moving them, until the underside is deep gold and the patty releases from the pan when nudged with a spatula.
- Turn once and cook the second side 3 minutes more, until crisp and gold. Lower the heat a notch if the crust darkens too fast.
- Lift onto a plate lined with paper towels to drain for a minute. Serve hot with lemon wedges, creamed peas, and bread and butter.
Tips that make the difference
- Crush the saltines inside their sleeve with a rolling pin or the flat of a glass. You want coarse crumbs with a few bigger bits, not fine dust.
- Cold hands and a firm press make a patty that holds. If the mix sticks to your palms, wet them.
- Do not crowd the skillet. Three patties at a time in a 10-inch pan; the oil stays hot and the crust forms fast.
- The oil should sizzle around the edges the moment a patty goes in. If it does not, wait; a patty put into cool oil soaks it up.
- Creamed peas on the side: a can or a cup of frozen peas warmed in 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flour and 3/4 cup milk, salt and pepper. Five minutes, and it is the supper.
Variations
- Salmon croquettes. Shape the mix into 8 smaller oval cakes and add 1/4 cup of crackers, for a firmer, more crumbly cake.
- With bell pepper. Add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped green bell pepper with the onion, the way a lot of Southern cooks did.
- Cornmeal crust. Press each shaped patty into a plate of fine cornmeal before frying for a grittier, crunchier crust.
- Baked. Set the patties on an oiled sheet pan, brush the tops with oil and bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 to 18 minutes, turning once. Less crust, no oil to pour off.
Storage and make-ahead
Cooked patties keep in the refrigerator for 3 days in a covered dish. Reheat in a dry skillet over medium heat, 2 minutes a side, so the crust comes back; the microwave makes them soft.
The raw mix can be shaped and refrigerated, covered, up to a day ahead. The rest only helps them hold.
Cooked patties freeze for 2 months in a sealed bag with parchment between them. Reheat from frozen in a 375°F (190°C) oven for about 15 minutes.
Frequently asked questions
Why do my salmon patties fall apart?
Two reasons, and they are almost always one of these. The mix was too wet, so add another tablespoon of crushed crackers and press the patties firmly; or they were turned too soon. Leave them until the first side is deep gold and they release from the pan on their own. The 10-minute rest before frying also matters more than it seems.
Do I have to take the bones out of canned salmon?
No. The bones in canned salmon are cooked soft and mash into the mix without a trace. Most old recipes left them in on purpose, for the calcium. Pull out the large round backbone pieces if they bother you and leave the rest.
Can I use breadcrumbs instead of saltines?
Yes, use 1/2 cup of dry breadcrumbs or panko, but the patties will be a little plainer and softer. Saltines season the mix and fry crisper. Crushed cornflakes also work and give a slightly sweet crust.
Can I use fresh salmon?
You can. Cook about 12 ounces of fresh salmon, cool it, flake it, and use it in place of the can. It makes a milder, drier patty; add a tablespoon of mayonnaise to the mix if it feels dry.
Nobody puts salmon patties on a menu, and nobody needs to. They belong to a Friday night kitchen with a black skillet and a can opener, and if you grew up on them you already know exactly how they are supposed to taste.
Old-Fashioned Salmon Patties (Canned Salmon, Saltines and a Cast Iron Skillet)
The Friday night salmon patties made from one can of pink salmon, crushed saltines, an egg and a little onion, fried in a cast iron skillet until the outside crackles. Six patties in 25 minutes, with creamed peas on the side. Cups and grams, and the two reasons they fall apart.
Ingredients
- 1 large can pink salmon (14.75 oz, 418g), drained
- 1 large egg
- 1/2 cup finely crushed saltine crackers
- 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1/4 inch (6mm) of neutral oil for frying, about 1/2 cup (120ml) in a 10-inch skillet
- Lemon wedges, to serve
Instructions
- Open the can, drain the salmon well, and turn it into a mixing bowl. Pull out the large round bones and any big pieces of skin if you prefer; the small soft bones can stay and will mash into the mix. Flake the salmon with a fork.
- Add the egg, crushed saltines, chopped onion, flour, black pepper and lemon juice. Mix with the fork until everything is evenly moistened. The mix should hold together when pressed; if it looks wet, add another tablespoon of crushed crackers.
- Divide into 6 portions and shape each into a patty about 3 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. Press firmly so the edges are tight. Set them on a plate and leave them for 10 minutes so the crackers swell and the egg binds.
- Pour 1/4 inch of oil into a 10-inch cast iron skillet and heat over medium-high until it shimmers. A crumb of the mix should sizzle at once.
- Lay the patties in the oil, leaving space between them. Cook 3 to 4 minutes without moving them, until the underside is deep gold and the patty releases from the pan when nudged with a spatula.
- Turn once and cook the second side 3 minutes more, until crisp and gold. Lower the heat a notch if the crust darkens too fast.
- Lift onto a plate lined with paper towels to drain for a minute. Serve hot with lemon wedges, creamed peas, and bread and butter.
