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My father had one thing to say every time one of us reached for the spatula and leaned on a hamburger in the pan: you just squeezed the dinner out of it. That sizzle you hear when you press down is the juice running out of the meat and burning on the hot iron. My mother made hamburgers on Sunday afternoons when the boys were home, in a big black skillet, and they came out thick, crusty on the outside and juicy all the way through, and she never pressed one in her life.
There are only three small things to her method, and they make all the difference. She shaped the patties loosely, never packing them tight, and pressed a dent into the middle of each one with her thumb, because burgers puff up in the middle as they cook and the dent makes them come out flat. She salted only the outside, and only right before they went into the pan, because salt mixed into ground beef draws out the proteins and turns the meat tight and springy. And she flipped them once, when the bottom had a deep brown crust and the juice started to show on top. Then the cheese went on, and they rested a moment before anybody touched a bun.
Why this homemade hamburgers works
- No pressing. Pressing pushes the juice out of the patty. Left alone, the juice stays inside.
- Loose patties. Packed meat cooks up dense and tough. Gently shaped meat stays tender.
- The thumb dent. The center of a burger swells as it cooks. A shallow dent keeps it flat for even cooking and an even layer of toppings.
- Salt at the last moment. Salt mixed in early turns ground beef springy. Salt on the surface seasons it and helps build a crust.
- One flip. A single flip gives each side time to build a deep brown crust.
Ingredients
Makes 4 thick hamburgers. The measurements are in US units with grams in brackets.
For the hamburgers
- 1 1/2 pounds ground beef, 80% lean (680g)
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 4 slices cheddar cheese (optional)
- 4 hamburger buns, split
- 1 tablespoon softened butter, for the buns
To serve
- Lettuce leaves
- Sliced ripe tomato
- Thinly sliced onion
- Pickles, mustard and ketchup as you like
Use 80% lean ground beef. Leaner beef makes a dry burger; the fat is what keeps it juicy in a hot skillet. Keep the meat cold until you shape it.
How to make homemade hamburgers
- Divide the cold ground beef into 4 equal portions (about 6 ounces, 170g each). Shape each one gently into a patty about 3/4 inch thick and a little wider than your bun. Do not pack it tight.
- Press your thumb into the center of each patty to make a shallow dent about 1/2 inch deep. Put the patties back in the refrigerator while the pan heats.
- Butter the cut sides of the buns and toast them in a large cast iron skillet over medium heat until golden. Set aside.
- Turn the heat to medium high and add the oil to the skillet. When it shimmers, sprinkle the salt and pepper over both sides of the patties.
- Lay the patties in the pan and leave them alone for 4 minutes, until a deep brown crust forms and juice begins to show on the top. Do not press them.
- Flip once. Cook 3 to 4 minutes more for medium (160 degrees, 71°C, in the center for well done). Lay the cheese on in the last minute and cover the pan for a moment to melt it.
- Move the burgers to a plate and let them rest 3 minutes, then build them on the toasted buns with your toppings.
Tips that make the difference
- Wet your hands with cold water before shaping so the meat does not stick and you do not overwork it.
- Do not crowd the skillet. Two at a time in a 10 inch pan, four in a 12 inch.
- Use a thin metal spatula to flip so the crust stays on the burger, not the pan.
- Let the cooked burgers rest. Cutting or biting straight away lets the juice run onto the plate.
Variations
- On the grill. Same patties, same thumb dent, over a hot grill, one flip, lid down for the cheese.
- Onion burgers. Press thin onion slices into the raw patties before they go into the pan.
- Patty melt. Serve on buttered grilled rye bread with soft fried onions and Swiss cheese.
- Smaller sliders. Make 8 small patties and cook them 2 to 3 minutes a side.
Storage and make-ahead
Shaped raw patties keep, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 day. Separate them with squares of parchment.
Freeze raw patties between parchment in a bag for up to 3 months. Cook from frozen over medium heat, a few minutes longer each side.
Refrigerate cooked burgers for up to 3 days and reheat in a covered skillet with a spoonful of water.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my hamburgers dry?
Usually from lean beef, pressing with the spatula, or flipping again and again. Use 80% lean, leave them alone, and flip once.
Why do my burgers puff up in the middle?
The edges shrink faster than the center as they cook. A shallow thumb dent in the raw patty keeps it flat.
When should I salt hamburgers?
Right before cooking, on the outside only. Salt mixed into the meat early makes the texture springy.
How do I know when to flip?
When a dark crust has formed underneath and the patty releases easily from the pan, with juice just starting to bead on top.
Loose patties, a thumb dent, salt at the last second, one flip, and no spatula pressing. My father would be proud of you.
Juicy Homemade Hamburgers (The Skillet Way, No Pressing)
How to make juicy homemade hamburgers in a skillet: loosely shaped beef patties with a thumb dent, salted on the outside just before cooking, cooked in a hot cast iron pan and flipped once, never pressed.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 pounds ground beef, 80% lean
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 4 slices cheddar cheese
- 4 hamburger buns, split
- 1 tablespoon softened butter, for the buns
- Lettuce leaves
- Sliced ripe tomato
- Thinly sliced onion
- Pickles, mustard and ketchup as you like
Instructions
- Divide the cold ground beef into 4 equal portions (about 6 ounces, 170g each). Shape each one gently into a patty about 3/4 inch thick and a little wider than your bun. Do not pack it tight.
- Press your thumb into the center of each patty to make a shallow dent about 1/2 inch deep. Put the patties back in the refrigerator while the pan heats.
- Butter the cut sides of the buns and toast them in a large cast iron skillet over medium heat until golden. Set aside.
- Turn the heat to medium high and add the oil to the skillet. When it shimmers, sprinkle the salt and pepper over both sides of the patties.
- Lay the patties in the pan and leave them alone for 4 minutes, until a deep brown crust forms and juice begins to show on the top. Do not press them.
- Flip once. Cook 3 to 4 minutes more for medium (160 degrees, 71°C, in the center for well done). Lay the cheese on in the last minute and cover the pan for a moment to melt it.
- Move the burgers to a plate and let them rest 3 minutes, then build them on the toasted buns with your toppings.
