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Hamburger hash was the cheapest supper my mother ever made. One package of ground beef, a few potatoes and an onion, all in one cast iron skillet, and six of us were fed with never a scrap left in the pan. My father called it the best supper of the week. On the good nights, when the hens were laying, she cracked eggs right on top and let the yolks run down into the potatoes. We never knew it was a poor supper. We thought it was a treat.
The whole dish lives or dies on the potatoes. Good hash has potatoes that are crisp and golden at the edges and fluffy inside. Bad hash has pale, soft, steamed potatoes in a puddle of beef. My mother’s secrets were simple: dice them small and even, dry them well, use a hot heavy skillet, and leave them alone. I add one more step she would have liked, a quick head start in boiling water, so they brown fast and cook through every time.
Here is the whole method, including how to get the potatoes crisp instead of steamed, and how to finish it with cheese and eggs in the same pan.
Why this hamburger hash works
- Small, even dice. Half-inch cubes brown on every side and cook through at the same time.
- A head start. Four minutes in boiling salted water seasons the potatoes and softens the middles, so the skillet only has to brown them.
- Dry potatoes. Steam-dried potatoes fry. Wet potatoes steam.
- Hands off. Leaving the potatoes undisturbed in a hot cast iron pan builds a real golden crust.
- Beef browned separately. Browning the beef in its own space keeps its juices from softening the crisp potatoes.
Ingredients
Serves 4 to 6 from one 12 inch skillet. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.
For the hash
- 1 1/2 pounds russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (680g), peeled or scrubbed, cut in 1/2 inch dice
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 1 pound ground beef, 85% lean (450g)
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more for the water
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 1 teaspoon soy sauce (optional)
To finish
- 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar (100g)
- 4 large eggs (optional)
- 2 green onions, sliced
- Ketchup or hot sauce, for the table
Russets give the crispiest edges and fluffiest middles; Yukon Golds hold their shape a little better and taste buttery. A 12 inch cast iron skillet is ideal, but any large heavy skillet works.
How to make hamburger hash
- Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the diced potatoes and boil for 4 minutes, just until the edges soften but the centers are still firm.
- Drain the potatoes well and spread them on a clean kitchen towel or a sheet pan for 5 minutes to steam dry.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 12 inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers.
- Add the potatoes in a single layer and press them down lightly. Do not stir. Let them cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until deep golden underneath.
- Turn them with a thin spatula, in sections, and cook another 5 to 6 minutes without stirring, until browned on a second side. Scoop the potatoes onto a plate.
- Add the last tablespoon of oil, the ground beef and the onion to the skillet. Cook, breaking up the beef, for 6 to 8 minutes, until the beef is browned with crusty bits and the onion is soft. Add the garlic for the last minute. Spoon off any extra fat.
- Season the beef with the salt, pepper, paprika and the soy sauce if using.
- Return the potatoes to the skillet and fold everything together gently. Spread it out and let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes so the bottom crisps again.
- Scatter the cheddar over the top, cover with a lid or a sheet pan, and let it melt for 2 minutes.
- For eggs, make 4 shallow wells in the hash with the back of a spoon and crack an egg into each. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 4 to 6 minutes, until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny.
- Scatter the green onions over the top and bring the skillet to the table.
Tips that make the difference
- Do not crowd the pan. If your skillet is smaller than 12 inches, brown the potatoes in two batches.
- Be patient with the first side. If the potatoes stick, they are not ready to turn yet; when the crust forms, they let go.
- Salt the beef, not the potatoes, while frying. Salt draws water out of the potatoes and slows the browning.
- Leftover baked or boiled potatoes, diced and well chilled, make excellent hash and skip the boiling step.
Variations
- Pepper and onion. Add a diced green bell pepper with the onion.
- Southwest. Season with chili powder and cumin, use pepper jack cheese, and serve with salsa.
- Corned beef. Swap the ground beef for 2 cups of diced cooked corned beef for a classic diner hash.
- Sweet potato. Use half sweet potatoes and half russets for a sweeter, colorful hash.
Storage and make-ahead
Refrigerate leftovers, without eggs, for up to 3 days.
Reheat in a hot skillet with a little oil, pressing it flat and letting it crisp again, rather than in the microwave.
Fry a fresh egg to go on top of the leftovers for a fast breakfast.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my hash potatoes mushy instead of crispy?
They were wet, the pan was crowded, or they were stirred too often. Dry them well, use a big hot skillet, and let them sit undisturbed until a crust forms.
Do I have to boil the potatoes first?
No, but it helps. Raw diced potatoes take 20 minutes or more to cook through in the skillet and often burn outside before the middle is soft.
What is the best potato for hash?
Russets for the crispiest edges, Yukon Golds for a creamy, buttery inside. Both work well.
Can I make hamburger hash ahead?
You can boil and dry the potatoes up to a day ahead and keep them in the refrigerator. Fry everything fresh for the crispiest hash.
Put the skillet in the middle of the table, set out the ketchup, and see if anybody at your table can tell it was made from almost nothing.
Hamburger Hash (Ground Beef and Crispy Potatoes in One Skillet)
Old-fashioned hamburger hash: diced potatoes fried crisp and golden in a cast iron skillet with browned ground beef and onion, finished with melted sharp cheddar and, if you like, eggs cooked right on top. A cheap, filling one-pan supper.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 pounds russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (680g), peeled or scrubbed, cut in 1/2 inch dice
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 1 pound ground beef, 85% lean
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more for the water
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 1 teaspoon soy sauce
- 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar
- 4 large eggs
- 2 green onions, sliced
- Ketchup or hot sauce, for the table
Instructions
- Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the diced potatoes and boil for 4 minutes, just until the edges soften but the centers are still firm.
- Drain the potatoes well and spread them on a clean kitchen towel or a sheet pan for 5 minutes to steam dry.
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 12 inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers.
- Add the potatoes in a single layer and press them down lightly. Do not stir. Let them cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until deep golden underneath.
- Turn them with a thin spatula, in sections, and cook another 5 to 6 minutes without stirring, until browned on a second side. Scoop the potatoes onto a plate.
- Add the last tablespoon of oil, the ground beef and the onion to the skillet. Cook, breaking up the beef, for 6 to 8 minutes, until the beef is browned with crusty bits and the onion is soft. Add the garlic for the last minute. Spoon off any extra fat.
- Season the beef with the salt, pepper, paprika and the soy sauce if using.
- Return the potatoes to the skillet and fold everything together gently. Spread it out and let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes so the bottom crisps again.
- Scatter the cheddar over the top, cover with a lid or a sheet pan, and let it melt for 2 minutes.
- For eggs, make 4 shallow wells in the hash with the back of a spoon and crack an egg into each. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 4 to 6 minutes, until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny.
- Scatter the green onions over the top and bring the skillet to the table.
