In this article
Cream of mushroom soup from scratch has one secret, and it is the step everybody skips. The mushrooms go into a hot, dry pan and brown before anything else touches them. No butter yet, no onion, just mushrooms spread out and left alone until they give up their water and turn deep brown at the edges. That browning is the whole flavor, and it is why the soup every casserole in America opened a can of never came close to a bowl made at home.
The other common problems are a gray, watery soup and a sauce that turns gluey or grainy. A gray soup comes from crowded, steamed mushrooms. A gluey soup comes from too much flour or a pot left boiling after the cream goes in. Here is how to brown the mushrooms deep, build a silky base with a small amount of flour, and blend only half of the soup so it is smooth but still full of mushrooms.
Why this cream of mushroom soup works
- A dry, hot pan. Mushrooms are mostly water. In a dry pan the water cooks off quickly and the mushrooms brown instead of stewing.
- Two batches. Room in the pan means steam escapes. Crowded mushrooms turn gray and rubbery.
- Butter after browning. Added once the mushrooms are brown, butter carries the flavor without burning.
- Half blended. Blending half the soup makes it creamy and thick without extra flour, and the rest keeps the bite of real mushrooms.
- Cream at the end, no boiling. Gentle heat keeps the cream smooth and the soup silky.
Ingredients
Makes about 8 cups, enough for 6 bowls. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.
For the soup
- 2 pounds white or cremini mushrooms (900g), wiped clean and sliced
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter (55g)
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour (30g)
- 4 cups chicken broth (950ml), warm
- 1 cup heavy cream (240ml)
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Cremini mushrooms (baby bellas) give the deepest flavor, white mushrooms a milder, paler soup. A mix of both is lovely. Use vegetable broth for a meatless soup.
How to make cream of mushroom soup
- Heat a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot. Add half the mushrooms in an even layer, no oil, and leave them alone for 3 to 4 minutes.
- Stir and keep cooking for 5 to 7 minutes more, until the water they release has cooked off and they are deep golden brown. Tip them into a bowl and brown the second half the same way.
- Set aside a large handful of the best browned slices for the tops. Return the rest to the pot.
- Lower the heat to medium. Add the butter and onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute.
- Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2 minutes so it cooks and coats everything.
- Pour in the warm broth a little at a time, stirring and scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the salt and pepper.
- Simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until slightly thickened.
- Ladle about half the soup into a blender and blend until smooth (hold the lid with a towel and vent it), or use a stick blender in the pot for a few short pulses. Return it to the pot.
- Stir in the cream and lemon juice and heat gently until hot, without letting it boil. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
- Serve topped with the reserved browned mushrooms, a little cracked pepper and a few thyme leaves.
Tips that make the difference
- Do not wash mushrooms under running water. Wipe them with a damp towel so they do not soak up water.
- Salt the mushrooms only after they have browned. Salt draws out water early and slows the browning.
- If the soup is too thick, add a splash of broth. If too thin, simmer a few minutes longer before the cream goes in.
- The lemon juice is not for a lemon taste. It brightens the mushrooms and keeps the soup from tasting flat.
Variations
- Chicken and mushroom. Stir in 2 cups of shredded cooked chicken with the cream.
- Wild rice. Add 2 cups of cooked wild rice at the end for a heartier supper soup.
- For casseroles. Make the soup with only 2 cups of broth for a thick condensed version. About 1 1/4 cups replaces one can in any casserole.
- Lighter. Use whole milk instead of cream and blend a little more of the soup for body.
Storage and make-ahead
Keep the soup covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat gently over low heat, stirring, and do not let it boil.
Freeze for up to 3 months. Cream soups can look slightly grainy after thawing; a quick whisk or a few pulses with a stick blender brings them back.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my mushroom soup gray?
The mushrooms steamed instead of browned. Use a hot, dry pan, cook them in batches, and wait for the water to evaporate before they color.
Can I make it without cream?
Yes. Use whole milk, or blend all of the soup for a creamy texture with no cream at all.
Can I use this instead of canned soup in casseroles?
Yes. Make the thick version in the variations and use about 1 1/4 cups for each can the recipe calls for.
Why did my soup turn gluey?
Too much flour, or it boiled hard after the cream went in. Keep the flour to the measured amount and heat the finished soup gently.
Make one pot, keep a jar of the thick version in the refrigerator, and see how long the casseroles in your house keep asking for the can.
Cream of Mushroom Soup from Scratch (Deep Browned Mushrooms, Silky and Never Gray)
Homemade cream of mushroom soup with mushrooms browned in a dry pan first for deep flavor, then simmered with onion, garlic, thyme and chicken broth, half blended and finished with cream for a silky soup.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds white or cremini mushrooms (900g), wiped clean and sliced
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 4 cups chicken broth (950ml), warm
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Instructions
- Heat a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot. Add half the mushrooms in an even layer, no oil, and leave them alone for 3 to 4 minutes.
- Stir and keep cooking for 5 to 7 minutes more, until the water they release has cooked off and they are deep golden brown. Tip them into a bowl and brown the second half the same way.
- Set aside a large handful of the best browned slices for the tops. Return the rest to the pot.
- Lower the heat to medium. Add the butter and onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute.
- Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2 minutes so it cooks and coats everything.
- Pour in the warm broth a little at a time, stirring and scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the salt and pepper.
- Simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until slightly thickened.
- Ladle about half the soup into a blender and blend until smooth (hold the lid with a towel and vent it), or use a stick blender in the pot for a few short pulses. Return it to the pot.
- Stir in the cream and lemon juice and heat gently until hot, without letting it boil. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
- Serve topped with the reserved browned mushrooms, a little cracked pepper and a few thyme leaves.
