Chocolate Delight with Homemade Chocolate Pudding

At a family reunion one summer, a man went back for a third piece of my mother’s chocolate delight and then asked her, very seriously, which bakery she had bought it from. He did not believe her when she said she made it in her own kitchen the night before, and to be fair, it does look like something from a bakery window. Four clean stripes in every square: a golden pecan shortbread crust, a white cream cheese layer, a deep dark chocolate pudding layer, and fluffy whipped cream scattered with more pecans.

Not one of the layers is hard. The crust is butter, flour and pecans pressed into the pan. The cream cheese layer is beaten and folded with whipped cream. The chocolate layer is where my mother never cut corners: she cooked her own pudding on the stove with cocoa, sugar, cornstarch, milk and egg yolks until it was thick enough to hold a spoon standing up. A homemade pudding made that thick is what lets the dessert set firm and cut into tall squares instead of sliding across the plate. Give it a night in the refrigerator and it is perfect.

Why this chocolate delight works

• A baked pecan crust. Baking the crust first and cooling it completely keeps it crisp under the soft layers.
• Cream cheese folded with whipped cream. It stays light and holds its shape between the crust and the pudding.
• A thick homemade pudding. Extra cornstarch and egg yolks cooked to a full boil make a pudding that sets firm when cold.
• Cooled pudding. Spreading the pudding only once it is cool keeps the cream cheese layer from melting.
• A night in the refrigerator. Time lets every layer firm up so the squares cut clean.

Ingredients

Makes one 9x13 inch dessert, about 15 squares. The measurements are in US cups with grams in brackets.

For the crust

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (190g)
• 3/4 cup unsalted butter, melted (170g)
• 1 cup finely chopped pecans (115g)
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (25g)

For the chocolate pudding

• 1 cup granulated sugar (200g)
• 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (45g)
• 1/3 cup cornstarch (40g)
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 3 1/2 cups whole milk (840ml)
• 4 large egg yolks
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (28g)
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

For the cream cheese layer

• 8 ounces cream cheese, softened (225g)
• 1 cup powdered sugar (120g)
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks (240ml)

For the topping

• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream (360ml)
• 3 tablespoons powdered sugar (24g)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans (55g)
• A little grated chocolate (optional)

Use whole milk for the pudding; lower fat milk makes a softer set. The cocoa can be natural or Dutch-process; Dutch-process gives a darker, smoother chocolate layer.

How to make chocolate delight

Make the crust

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees (175°C). Mix the flour, melted butter, pecans and sugar, and press the mixture firmly and evenly into the bottom of a 9x13 inch dish.
2. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until golden at the edges. Cool completely.

Make the pudding

3. In a saucepan, whisk the sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt together, then whisk in the milk and egg yolks until smooth.

4. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens and comes to a full boil. Let it bubble for 1 minute, still whisking, until very thick.
5. Take it off the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla. Pour into a bowl, press plastic wrap onto the surface and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Assemble

6. Beat the cream cheese and powdered sugar until smooth, then fold in the whipped cream. Spread it evenly over the cold crust.

7. Stir the cooled pudding until smooth and spread it over the cream cheese layer.
8. Whip the cream with the powdered sugar and vanilla to soft peaks and spread it over the pudding. Scatter the pecans and grated chocolate on top.
9. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, best overnight, before cutting into squares with a knife dipped in hot water.

Tips that make the difference

• Whisk the pudding without stopping. Cornstarch and yolks scorch quickly on the bottom of the pan.
• Let the pudding boil a full minute. Cornstarch needs real boiling to thicken fully; undercooked pudding stays runny.
• Spread each layer gently from the center out with an offset spatula so the layers do not mix.
• Wipe the knife between cuts for clean, bakery-sharp stripes.

Variations

• Butterscotch delight. Replace the chocolate pudding with a brown sugar butterscotch pudding.
• Lemon delight. Use a thick lemon pudding and a little lemon zest in the cream cheese layer.
• Walnut crust. Use walnuts in place of pecans in the crust and the topping.
• Graham crust. Swap the shortbread crust for crushed graham crackers mixed with melted butter, pressed in and baked 10 minutes.

Storage and make-ahead

Keep chocolate delight covered in the refrigerator up to 4 days. It cuts best cold, straight from the refrigerator.

You can make it a full day ahead; it is even better on the second day.

It does not freeze well because the whipped cream and pudding weep when thawed.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my chocolate delight runny?

The pudding was not thick enough. Cook it to a full boil and let it bubble for a minute, then let the dessert chill at least 4 hours.

Can I use instant pudding?

You can, but a homemade cooked pudding tastes deeper and sets firmer, which is why the squares hold their stripes.

What is the difference between chocolate delight and possum pie?

They are close cousins with the same layers. Possum pie is usually made in a pie plate, chocolate delight in a 9x13 pan.

How far ahead can I make it?

Up to a day ahead. Add the pecans on top just before serving so they stay crisp.

Make it the night before, cut it cold, and do not be surprised if somebody at the table asks which bakery it came from.